Tejal Rao Debuts With Perla; Ryan Sutton Anoints Torrisi ‘New York Heaven’ (nymag)
**San Matteo Panuozzo.** On Monday, _New York_'s Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite gave two stars each to two downtown sandwich spinoffs San Matteo Panuozzo and Taboonette. What did the city's crop of professional eaters think about restaurants this week? Let's take a look. For her review debut at the _Village Voice_, Tejal Rao gives us the full experience at Perla -- shrimp heads that taste "like a campfire that burns by the sea," a friendly waitress that chants "do it, do it" when a last bite of foie gras and pistachio butter sits on the plate, the _Dirty Dancing_ soundtrack playing overhead. One thing she's not interested in doing -- chronicling her night via Twitpic. Robert Sietsema samples three types of sausages during "opening" weekend for Vandaag's weenie window. The only dog he's barking about is the bunless Double Dutch -- a Braty boudin blanc and a dissolving blood sausage. Pete Wells can't get enough of the charcutier and saucier expertise at La Silhouette in Hell's Kitchen. He awards the year-old eatery one star (and a gold star for politeness). Ryan Sutton says Torrisi Italian Specialties has shed its clumsy chicken parm sammies and lunch and lines out the door. ...
Spotlight on French wines