The Modernization Of Wine In Southern Italy
Clearly the landscape of Italy's Southern wine industry is changing. With the arrival of Northern firms, the South is being challenged with new management scheme. The newbies have brought with them modern management, global commercial networks, and worldwide experience in both marketing and wine production. This new approach to the business of wine is causing a major earthquake in the provincial south.
How is a small-time quality producer to contest with a massive company or a rival who makes wine with the help of the celebrated Mr. Rolland? The rules of competition have therefore changed and the standard producer is left with two main choices: learn from their new neighbors about the best way to make and market their wine, or forget the potent new entrants and keep on making their own wines. But in any case, globalization has set in, as even the latter group has taken to making wines from world varietals.
Italy's Southern wine industry is being modernised and is entering the world wine market. For instance, of the the Italian wine that is imported, Germany (only bulk wine) and France (only for bulk wine for mixing) both import 32 percent and 25 percent respectively. Naturally, these numbers include all wines from Italy, but nonetheless this bodes well for the South. Its wines are receiving attention and are being sold.
In Apulia, one finds well balanced, dry and sweet, red, white, and rose wine, including the great Castel del Monte DOC, Salentino, and Primitivo. But the area is still trying to build a name for worldclass wines, even if they are of good worth. In Campania, Ciro is building a name for itself using modern systems that have decreased the share of alcohol and the risk of oxidation leading to a rounded wine with plenty of fresh fruit, bouquet, and acidity. Sicily provides the wine lover with plenty of options. One may continue to find superbly made Marsalas and Moscatos, but will also discover smoothly bone-dry whites and both delicate and dynamic reds such as Nero d'Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir.
Additionally, DOC wine production is growing and has increased dramatically over the past one or two years. The South now has its first DOCG wine, Taurasi from Campania. The very same Taurasi is now being offered by some as the "Barolo of the South."
It is clear that the 6 regions of the South are facing a wine revolution. Their wines are gaining momentum on the market and can no longer be ignored. The challenge for the winemaker goes past what varietals to cultivate, where to plant them, what style of wine to make, and how to market them.
The most difficult task for the Southern producer is plausibly simple: making a wine of terroir. A wine that remains true to the soil, the climate, the culture, and the region, not only a wine which will sell or receive high marks from a famous wine reporter, while somehow including the advantages that come with the modernizing of viniculture and viticulture. This is the challenge, and the solution to this challenge will take time, cash, and lots of experimentation.
Nic Haegeli still considers himself pretty new to the wine business, but he now has a few years of expertise as a wine manager at Colonial Spirits, an Acton liquor store. With a BA in History and a Master of Public Policy in International Relations, Nic never envisioned himself working with wine. However, he did grow up in Alsace, France... So, it makes sense when you know where he comes from.
Be certain to visit Colonial Spirits' Wine Blog, where Nic and the rest of the wine managers at Colonial Spirits of Acton share their collective zeal for wine.
Gems Tasting at The Winewatch