Italian Terroir
Among the biggest difficulties that producers of Southern Italian wine face are those of prejudice and ignorance. Southern Italy is still a source of the majority of Italian bulk wine. All six regions of the South manufacture about 40 percent of Italian wine and about seven per cent of DOC wines, never mind DOCG wines. When folks think about Southern Italian wine, they may not necessarily be in a position to recall fine wines as the market hasn't truly been full of them, as Southern Italian wine has been box wine.
So Southern Italian wine producers must first build credibility in the market and distinguish their wines from the bulk wine still being created. They must demonstrate that their wines are quality as opposed to jug, and so are worth drinking. Because of the jug reality in the South, producers must make a product that's unique and that will sell.
Additionally, many critics think the Mezzogiorno is ill-suited for making well balanced wines because of preconceived notions that Southern Italy is simply too dry and hot. While the 6 regions are all hot and dry, many vineyards are found on mountainsides or by the sea, allowing for cooler air and mist to help retain acidity. Southern Italy can manufacture full-bodied and well balanced white and red wine.
Since Southern producers have entered the quality-wine market they have been confronted with the difficulty of what varietals to use to make wine. Of course, each region has its specializations. In Campania, the oenophile will find (unique) wine varietals in Greco di Tufo and Aglianico (making Taurasi). In Apulia, one will discover Malvasia Nero (often mixed with Negroamaro), Negroamaro, and Zinfandel (known domestically as Primitivo). In barren Basilicata, the wine enthusiast will discover Aglianico del Vulture. While in Calabria, one can imbibe Gaglioppo, Magliocco, and Mantonico (of these only Gaglioppo has a chance of becoming important). In Sardinia, one can drink Cannonau (aka Grenache, brought by Catalans) & Vermentino. Ultimately, one can not forget Sicily with its Nero d'Avola, Grillo, Inzolia, and Moscato (making superb dessert wines in Pantelleria).
The Southern Italian area is not lacking in unique varietals, most of Greek origin, and so unique wines. Nonetheless many producers have taken to planting international varietals like Chardonnay and Syrah, thus producing wines the international market will like , or at a minimum be conversant with, and therefore be more certain to embrace. Sicily's Planeta is one such producer that has done this and has established great success. Many well-respected oenologists have even recommended that the international varietal wines of the region can and will rival those of other regions. Giacomo Tachis, whom many consider the daddy of Sicily's wine revolution, has recommended the Pinot Noir from the Mt. Etna region will in time challenge Burgundy.
This "give the people what they desire" model of winemaking is very similar to that of California or Australia and it does work. But is it original? Should not producers make wines of terroir, those unique to the South and its culture? Southern Italian producers have done both with success, and some have even blended local and global varietals in order to make wines that are familiar to the international market yet have a specifically Southern Italian flavor to them.
Nic Haegeli still considers himself rather new to the wine business, but he now has a few years of experience as a wine manager at Colonial Spirits, an Acton liquor store. With a BA in History and a Master of Public Policy in International Relations, Nic never envisioned himself working with wine. However , he did grow up in Alsace, France... Hence it makes sense when you know where he comes from.
Colonial Spirits would like to invite you to come by our store in Acton, MA for one of our many wine tastings. If you are unable to come by the physical store, then please consider our online liquor store. Colonial Spirits Delivers offers wine delivery throughout in Eastern Massachusetts!
Latham Center Wine & Spirits Commercial Spot
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